French oak is tough. It survived a hundred years of mill machinery, weather and footfall, your dining room is a holiday. Three small habits will keep the top looking right for the next fifty years.
Hardwax oil is heat-resistant, not heat-proof. Anything above 80°C, fresh-out-of-the-pot teapots, hot dishes straight from the oven, can mark the finish. A coaster, a placemat or a folded tea-towel does it.
Especially red wine, beetroot, turmeric, soy sauce and tomato. French oak's open grain absorbs colour fast. Damp cloth, dry cloth, done in 20 seconds.
A 20-minute job with food-safe hardwax oil and a soft cloth brings the top back to fresh. Most customers do it once a year. Heavy-use family tables (think weetabix every morning) every six months.
99% of cleaning is just a damp cloth. The other 1% is knowing which products to keep away from the table.
Any food-safe hardwax oil works well, Osmo Polyx-Oil and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil are both excellent and widely available from any decent timber merchant or Toolstation. Around 250ml will give you eight or so refreshes, four to five years of normal use.
French oak takes touch-ups like a champion. Most marks come out with a sand and a re-oil, and an exact-match repair is usually invisible.
Small white ring from a cold drink left on the table? Most disappear on their own within a day or two as the oil rebalances. If it's still there after a couple of days: lightly sand with fine sandpaper (just the affected area), wipe clean, re-oil that spot. Should be invisible.
White cloudy patch from a hot dish? Same fix as a water ring, but you may need to sand a little harder. If the mark goes deep, sand with medium sandpaper first, then fine, then re-oil the whole board (not just the spot) so the finish blends.
Light scratch, fingernail-deep or less, usually disappears with a re-oil alone. Deeper scratch: sand the immediate area with medium sandpaper, finish with fine, re-oil. French oak's natural grain hides repair work brilliantly.
Caught it in the first 30 seconds? Damp cloth, done. Caught it after a few hours? Sand the stain out with medium sandpaper, work down to fine, re-oil. Don't panic, even quite-set stains lift out of hardwax-oiled oak with a little patience.
From an actually-hot pan? Sand it back with coarse sandpaper until you reach clean wood, then work up through medium and fine. Re-oil the affected board. If it's gone deeper than 2mm, get in touch, we can repair more serious damage in the workshop, or send a board for in-home blending.
Solid oak dents, that's part of being real wood. Small dents (anything where you can fit a fingernail tip) often steam back out: lay a damp cloth over the dent, run a hot iron over the cloth for 30 seconds. The water turns to steam, the wood swells back. Re-oil afterwards.
Underside of the top: there are 8 bolts holding the steel base on. Over the years they can work slightly loose, particularly after the wood has fully acclimatised in your home. Snug them up with the allen key (sent with the table for assembly) every couple of years. Don't overtighten, finger-tight plus a quarter-turn is enough.
Email [email protected] with a photo. We'll tell you whether it's a 20-minute home job, a kit-and-instructions job we'll send out, or whether we should collect the top for a workshop repair. Most things are home-fixable.
Email a photo to [email protected], we'll tell you whether it's a 5-minute home fix or whether to send it back. Real human reply, usually same day.
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